In the world of wine, the relationship between terroir and grape varieties plays a key role in creating the uniqueness of a wine. But Tokaj is an even more specialised area, where the characteristics of the land influence the character of the wine produced. The Harsányi Winery works with three of the best-known Tokaj grape varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály (Muscat Lunel). Many people disparage Tokaj wines because they identify the production area and the varieties with a specific flavour.

 This article looks at how terroir influences these varieties, how it affects the flavours and structure of the wines, and how a winery can combine the characteristics of the terroir with the character of the grapes and the unique winemaking styles.

Characteristics of the Tokaj terroir

The speciality of Tokaj wines lies in the fact that the characteristics of the production area shape the wines made there in an almost unique way. The soil, the microclimate, and the vineyards all influence the character of the final wine. Still, the winemaker has just as much of a role to play in deciding which character to enhance and which to tame in the winemaking process.

Tokaj-Hegyalja has a unique terroir, which plays a decisive role in the quality of the wines:

• Soil structure: The Tokaj region is characterised by a volcanic soil structure, and our vineyards also have riolite tuff, clay, and andesite. In addition, kaolin and sometimes iron oxide infiltration are also present in some vineyards. These rocks provide a rich mineral content, which contributes to the minerality of the wines, and are also responsible for regulating the water balance in the grapes. The volcanic soil retains the warmth that helps the grapes to grow at night, which also contributes to their proper development.
• Microclimate: The proximity of the Bodrog river ensures high humidity in autumn, which is key for the onset of The Noble Rot . This phenomenon is one of the greatest specialities of the Tokaj wine region, as it allows the production of the world-famous Tokaji Aszú. Autumn's cold nights and mornings as well as humid but sunny afternoons all contribute to the balance of sugar and acidity in the wines. This microclimate, almost unique in the world, gives the structure to Tokaji wines.
• Orientation: The amount, angle and intensity of sunshine that a particular vineyard receives at a particular time of year can make the difference to a particular yield. Different vineyards on different slopes can therefore produce wines with different characters. For example, in less sunny areas, slower ripening preserves the freshness of the wine, which ensures a long shelf life. Having mixed vineyard areas in some vineyards helps to produce balanced wines, as you can blend a good proportion of fuller-bodied and lighter wines.
• Air movement and position: Higher altitudes improve ventilation and reduce the risk of fungal infections. The vine grower can improve this by frequent greenwork.
• The Harsányi Winery's four vineyards have different characteristics, so that wines made from the same variety can have different characteristics. Some vineyards produce wines with a more fruity character, while others produce wines with a more mineral character. The Királyhegy vineyard produces intensely mineral dry wines with firm acidity. The wines from the Megyer vineyard are creamy and elegant, but also remarkably complex. The Ciróka vineyard has more fruitiness, lightness and playfulness.

The above characteristics are attributes but also opportunities. Nature, vineyards, sunshine and soil provide the framework for the work of the winemaker and the winegrower, but with expertise, a sense of style, a concept and a collaboration with nature, it is our choice what wine we make. Unfortunately, there are still people who refuse to taste Tokaj wine because they attribute to the terroir and the varieties the heavy, overly full-bodied, very high alcohol, often oxidised or defective wines. But Tokaj is special precisely because its terroir provides a rich raw material that allows almost any style of wine to be made.

Response to terroir of Furmint, Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály.

Furmint - The most varied grape variety, where the terroir is most pronounced
Furmint is one of the most important grape varieties in Tokaj, providing the greatest scope for action. From the light, reductive, fresh Furmint, you can taste some very special, deep and elegant barrel-aged wines. It can also be a beautiful base for late-harvest sweet wines. It is the variety that best shows the potential of the growing area:

• Acid structure: Grown on volcanic soils, Furmint wines have bright acidity and long ageing potential.
• Temperature sensitivity: The slow-ripening variety retains its freshness in cooler vineyards, while in warmer areas it becomes richer and more concentrated.
• The barrel and the body of the wine: The barrel ageing and the terroir give it a complex structure, which goes well with both dry and sweet Tokaji wines.

Hárslevelű - Aromas and elegance
Hárslevelű wines have a more aromatic, fruity character and are shaped by the following terroir influences:

• Floral, honey scents: The variety is characterised by its honeyed, floral aromas.
• Softer acid structure: The acid profile of the Hárslevelű wines is softer, but they are characterised by a long maturing period.
• Complexity: Although Hárslevelű is a more fragrant variety, Hárslevelű wines aged on volcanic soils have a special minerality that enhances the characteristics of the terroir. So not only light wine lovers may fall in love with this spicy, honeyed wine, but also serious wine lovers may be surprised by a well-chosen vintage.

Sárgamuskotály - Lightness and richness of fragrance
Sárgamuskotály produces lighter, more fragrant wines, which are influenced by the following:

• Fragrant, fruity character: The higher humidity and the site conditions favour the development of intense muscatel notes.
• Airy structure: Excellent for making fresh, reductive wines that preserve primary grape flavours.
• Sweet and dry varieties: Depending on the terroir, it can be made into light dry or sweet dessert wines.

The interaction of terroir and grape varieties is crucial in the development of the unique character of the wines, which finally takes its final form through the collaboration of the winemaker and the winegrower, the choice of the harvest date, the tasteful use of barrels and the judicious selection of blends. The diversity of the terroir of Harsányi Winery results in unique wines, in which the soil and the varietal character are in balance. The wines produced here faithfully reflect the natural characteristics of Tokaj-Hegyalja, while the expertise of the winery and its respect for tradition contribute to the high quality.